a second time for everything

Allow me to present my favorite garment of 2013 so far! It didn’t take much to beat the first attempt, but I’m happy to say that I quite like this one… and not just by comparison. :-)

Vogue 8854 view A-ish

You may recall that the first time I tried Vogue 8854, I found the fit in the armscye/upper chest to be way out of whack. I needed to make significant adjustments, and for once I decided to avoid recreating the wheel. I took a knit top pattern that I’ve already tweaked into well-fittingness, laid it under this pattern, and traced the necessary modifications. Um, why did it take me so long to use this technique? Maybe I really wanted that next pattern to be the one that would fit, semi-straight outta the envelope?? No amount of wanting was gonna make that happen. And who cares, when it’s this easy to swap out the parts that you already know will work! Anyway, since I had made such major changes to the armscye, I traced that same pattern’s sleeve cap as well, so that it would fit into the bodice properly.

Vogue 8854 close

This top uses primarily view A but with the sleeves from B/C. I shortened the sleeves, I believe by about 6″, to make them roughly 3/4 length. I chose this view in order to incorporate the collar instead of the hood. However, I knew that I would always wear the collar turned down, rather than straight up as it was styled on the envelope:

Vogue 8854 view A

click for source / The McCall Pattern Company

With this intent, I interfaced the collar as directed, but I did not add the two snaps there. (The directions call for four snaps total — two at the placket, two at the collar.)

On the whole, I found this make quite easy (fitting issues aside), and thought the instructions were better than average for Big 4. I think they’d be fairly simple for a new sewist to follow, although I do like Victory Patterns’ tutorial for sewing a curved hem much better than the directions Vogue provides. I’ve finally got that twin needle thing whipped, and I used it for the sleeves’ hems. But I didn’t want to mess with it and the curviness of the bottom hem simultaneously, so I used a decorative (super-stretchy!) stitch for this part:

hemming -- decorative stitch

So, I’m left with kind of a funny situation. This version still wasn’t made from the “final” fabric that I had planned, because I wanted to make absolutely sure of the fit, collar style, etc. I like the fabric but it wasn’t the omg-crushin’-hard-would-just-die-if-I-messed-it-up choice. But now I think I’m kind of ready to move on to another pattern. Ha! I guess the good news is that at this rate, I’m slowly refining my stash to reduce the purchases I’m lukewarm about. But clearly I’m keeping myself from wearing the pieces I adore while they languish in the stash closet. WTF — I can’t take it with me! Do you do anything that remotely resembles this??

Vogue 8854 back

9 thoughts on “a second time for everything

  1. Susan,
    Looks like you have finally achieved a good fit, and this top looks great on you. Love the collar.
    Yes, I have done the same thing with using a less loved fabric, and it teaches me to only buy fabrics that I LOVE. I use the less loved ones for muslins or wearable muslins, like you did. My advice? If you are tired of this pattern, let it rest. You know you have a TNT now, and you can always come back to it when you are in the mood again. Plus it gives you a chance to wear this top for a while to make sure you love the style.

    Thanks Andrea! That’s a really good point… Sometimes I forget that the timing is up to me. :) And you’re right — after wearing a garment a while, we really get to know a lot more about it! ~Susan

  2. looks great, how clever to use another pattern to correct the fit.

    Thank you! I plan to use that process a lot more moving forward…

  3. Your top is super cute!
    I do that thing with the mediocre fabric too: I use fabric I’m not crazy about to try out a new pattern , then sometimes realize I’m not crazy about the pattern either!

    Thank you! Yes, I’ve definitely had that happen too! Sometimes I like the fabric more after it’s made up though, which can be a pleasant surprise. :)

  4. I am not too keen on the envelope pic- a little straggly scifi for me, but your relaxed collar makes this very doable. I love the print on you, too!

    Thanks! I know, the envelope styling is weird, and I wasn’t at all sure about the assemetry, but it’s growing on me… I definitely was more drawn to the hooded view at first, but that has shifted. ~S

  5. What a gorgeous print! It looks and fits so well. Glad the second go was successful!

    Thanks Mela… A great fit on the second try is about as good as it gets! :D

  6. Such a great fit, Susan! And I like how the fabric direction draws your eye to the collar -very nice :)

    Thanks Kim! It is quite a dramatic collar. A friend told me it was very Carol Brady. :)

  7. Thanks for bringing this pattern to my attention. It didn’t impress me in the catalog, but your version looks good enough that I might consider it.

    Thanks Sherri! I’m glad you like this version. :)

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