scout badge, check

I never was much of a joiner as a kid… rules and stuff have always made me chafe. :~) Therefore, I wasn’t in the Girl Scouts, and so I’ve never known the validation that surely must come from earning those badges. (Am I crazy or didn’t there used to be sewing badges? Did they get replaced with ones like Netiquette? Not that netiquette isn’t important, mind you…) Okay, so these musings have precisely nothing to do with this blog post, except for being what the word “scout” brings to mind for me.

Scout Woven Tee pattern from Grainline Studio

Have you seen Grainline Studio‘s pattern for the Scout Woven Tee? I have to admit that the first time I saw this pattern (months ago), I did not immediately recognize the value. Would I like to have a super-simple pattern for a basic woven top in my arsenal? Naturally, but did I really need to buy one? Surely my pattern stash had something that would qualify. And I wasn’t all that convinced that a dartless *insert anything woven here* would work on me anyway. Then, I saw a friend wear it. I couldn’t believe there were no telltale ill-fit lines or anything, even though she has a full bust as I do. I had to try it.

line art for Scout Woven Tee from Grainline Studio

My first top shown here was made from a floral rayon challis, purchased from this past spring. It finally worked! I still find this fabric exceeding difficult to cut and sew, but it feels so great to wear that it’s worth it. By the by, this was the same fabric that I initially tried to cut for my first Taffy. Therefore, due to the resulting yardage limitations, my top has a center back seam — where the print somewhat matched, miraculously and unintentionally. I couldn’t have matched it nearly so well had I been trying.

Scout Woven Tee from Grainline Studio

As far as fitting goes, I started with a size 18. The bust measurement for this size (44″) matches my high bust, which is how I choose my size with just about all pattern companies, since it usually fits my shoulders well. It turned out to be the right choice — the shoulders were perfect. Then, I did a 4″ full bust adjustment, graded out some more at the hem (hips), and added 1″ of length to both the front and back pieces. That’s it! Very easy and fast, as far as alterations go for me. I ended up finding the extra length unnecessary and removed it from my pattern after making this one.

I used baby hems throughout. I learned this technique from a friend, but the closest tutorial I’ve found online is here.

baby hems

I just used some bias tape from my stash for the neckline. Yeah, like I was going to make bias strips from rayon challis. I had already managed to get the pattern pieces cut out without incident; I wasn’t going to push my luck. But I still had a bit of an issue with the neckline, which was totally my fault:

Always staystitch rayon challis, kids!

Consider that a PSA for staystitching, folks, as if you needed one. Ah well.

If you had told me last month that one of the better fitting tops in my closet would be a woven with set-in sleeves (usually another fitting problem for me) and no darts, I would have tried to have you committed. This is an incredibly well-drafted pattern, and it has skyrocketed straight to the top of my favorites list — thanks Jen from Grainline! One day I’ll make one from a gorgeous Liberty print like the sample on her site…

Some of you may have noticed a variety of technical issues with my little site this past six weeks or so. These issues have played no small part in the lack of new posts during that time period, as well. I’m hoping, fingers crossed, that it has been resolved at this stage. I apologize for any errant feedburner emails or jibberish stuff you’ve encountered. Frustrating!

Comments 9

  • The top looks great on you. What a fabulous fit. I wasn’t convinced by the Grainline top patterns but finally caved and bought them. I make the Tiny Pocket Tank and I love it more than (dare I say it…) the Sorbetto. Looking forward to making the Scout Woven T.

    Thanks Melizza! I haven’t tried the Tiny Pocket Tank yet but if the fit is as great as with this one, it will beat the pants off of the Sorbetto for me. Love Colette but I had a world of fit issues with that pattern! ~Susan

  • Ok…I, like you, have not been at all convinced that this top would work for my figure, which, like you, has curves and b**bs!
    But, Holy Moly, I was wrong. (Don’t tell my husband I just said that).
    This top is STUNNING. It’s such a fantastic fit. I’m definitely adding this to my sewing wish list. I just hope my version turns out as nicely as yours has.
    PS…Sorbetto wasn’t great for me either.

    Thanks, Evie, I was shocked too! Looking forward to seeing your version(s)…. Because I betcha can’t make just one… ~Susan

  • This is so pretty! I’ve waffled about buying this pattern too – I have a very different body shape than yours, but I still can’t imagine any woven top without darts fitting properly. So I’m really pleased to read your assessment of the pattern. I think you’ve pushed me off the fence! Yours looks great!

    Thank you Gail — and sorry for being a pusher… ;-) ~Susan

  • I just love this print and fit on you, Susan. Great job!

    Thanks! :-) ~Susan

  • I understand how these things require a real leap of faith. Glad you took it, and really pleased it worked out so well for you. And it’s nice to find a fellow appreciator of rayon challis! :)

    Definitely, leap of faith is a good way to put it! :-) ~Susan

  • I love this top on you! I had been avoiding it because I didn’t think a dartless top was going to look good on me – but my figure is similar to yours and you look fantastic!
    Now for a newbie question… how do you do a 4″ dartless FBA? All of the fitting books I have seem to want you to make a dart. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated!

    Hi birdmommy, thanks so much! I actually did the FBA just as I would have with a dart– cutting lines going from apex to armscye, side seam, and bottom hem. Then, when it was complete, I redrew the side seam, taking the new bustline out to where I wanted the hip width to be. I mirrored the side seam on the back piece as well. The main thing it accomplished, besides a width increase, was the reshaping of the front armscye to account for my bust. I hope that makes sense. I was thinking of taking a few pics and putting up a tutorial of how I did it — would this be helpful to you? There are definitely other ways to do it, but this was fast and easy and it worked! ~Susan

  • Thanks for the quick reply! I’d love to see a tutorial if you get the time.

  • […] lightweight cotton lawn with contrasting cotton bias strips for the piping, which worked great. For the first Scout I made, I used rayon challis, and I loved the result of this drapey fabric with this pattern. I have […]

  • […] lightweight cotton lawn with contrasting cotton bias strips for the piping, which worked great. For the first Scout I made, I used rayon challis, and I loved the result of this drapey fabric with this pattern. I have […]

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